Kauai – Garden Island Paradise
Hawaii has always been one of those destinations on my bucket list that I always wanted to get back to…eventually. After visiting Maui as a pre-teen, I naively thought I had done everything there was to do in Hawaii. Amazing beaches, check. Luau, check. Helicopter ride, check. What else was there to see? Fast forward to late 2021, after many cancelled trips due to the COVID-19 pandemic, like everyone else, I am beyond ready to travel again. But where? Then, like a thunderbolt of inspiration from the travel gods, a flight deal to Kauai landed in my inbox. Hawaii. We were sold!
But which of the islands did we want to explore first? Would it be Maui, with its 5-star hotels and world-renowned beaches? Or Oahu, with its historic monuments, bustling metropolitan area, and spectacular surfing? With its national parks, waterfalls, and black sand beaches, I had my eye on the Big Island. Then Dan showed me pictures of Kauai (which I had already discarded as somewhere we could go back to if we made it back to Hawaii). The Garden Isle – and the oldest island in the archipelago – is unmatched in terms of raw beauty. She has towering waterfalls, pristine beaches, and crystal blue water. Not to mention the jagged peaks and verdant valleys of the Na Pali Coast. We were going to Kauai.
This perfect slice of tropical paradise was where we based our adventures for an entire week. Welcome to Kauai – the Garden Isle.
How to Get to Kauai
Like all of the Hawaiian Islands, there is only one way to get there, fly. Dan and I flew into Lihue from Oahu then rented a car to get around the island. We planned to visit both Kauai and Oahu on this trip but knew we wanted to spend most of our time on Kauai. We arranged to visit Oahu at the end of our trip to ensure we didn’t miss our flight home in case our connection was delayed or cancelled (good thing we did!).
Fly to Lihue
Lihue Airport (LIH) is located 3 km from the city center. Hawaiian Airlines is the biggest airline serving airports on the four major islands. With more than 170 flights per day within Hawaii, it is a breeze to hop between islands. They operate more than 10 daily flights just from Honolulu. Just be mindful that the flight schedule can change so leave plenty of time on your connection from the mainland.
Tip: We booked our flight to Kauai separately from our flight to Oahu to give us more flexibility with how we wanted to spend our time on each island. It also saved us some money by booking each leg independently. This way we got to see two islands in one trip without being tied to a specific flight schedule. One downside of this booking method is that you’ll have to retrieve your checked baggage from your first flight and re-check it for your second flight. Be sure to factor that into your travel time.
Best Time to Visit Kauai
There really isn’t a bad time to visit Kauai but April to June and September to November are ideal. You’ll find warm weather without the summer crowds (don’t forget about spring break visitors and prices during the pre-summer months). Given that Kauai is one of the rainiest places in the world, you’ll likely experience a fair amount of precipitation no matter when you go. Kauai’s rainfall is part of what makes it so special since it is responsible for the lush rainforests you’ll be exploring and the glorious waterfalls you’ll be chasing! Pack your rain jacket and soak it all in.
Tip – If you’re willing to take your chances at the beginning or end of the rainy season (November to March), you can find much lower prices on flights and lodging. We went during the first week of March and found great deals on our flight from Boston, as well as our Airbnb in Princeville.
Where to Stay in Kauai
During our stay in Kauai we rented a lovely studio in Princeville. It was perfect for us since we didn’t plan to spend much time there. Accommodations in Kauai can be pricey so it was important that we find something that fit our budget (less than $300/night). The recommendations on this list are other locations that we considered while researching.
- Kapa’a Condo (Airbnb)This romantic condo in Kapa’a with its large windows and lanai overlooking the grounds was almost too good to pass up. Ultimately, we knew we’d be spending most of our time in and around the North Shore and wouldn’t be around to enjoy the pool access. We’d want to base our adventures in a new location next time and Kapa’a is at the top of our list!
- Poipu Tropical Retreat (Airbnb): It’s rare to find a stand-alone rental small enough for 2 people in Kauai but this beautifully appointed home in the heart of sunny Poipu was a top contender. A great option if you’re looking to be close to Poipu Beach.
- O’Luina (Hotel): If we were able to splurge on any hotel in Kauai, it would have been this one. Rated as one of the most romantic getaways in the world, this luxurious longhouse perched in the verdant tropical landscape is simply stunning. If you can see yourself walking barefoot along the sun-soaked lanai or relaxing in a hammock on the balcony, O’Luina is just the ticket.
The Best Things to Do on Kauai
Splurge on a Doors-Off Helicopter Tour
One could argue that there is no better way to see the jaw-dropping views in Kauai than by helicopter. If you want the best photographs (and an adrenaline rush), consider the doors-off experience. You’ll weave through the peaks and valleys of Waimea Canyon, surge past gigantic waterfalls nestled within the canyon walls, and soar over the Pacific Ocean past the famous cathedrals of Nā Pali with the wind in your hair. Several companies offer the doors-off experience so do your research and find the one that fits your needs and budget. We chose Jack Harter Helicopters and had a blast! If I had to choose one experience that you should not miss, it would be this!
Experience Kauai’s Nā Pali Coast by Boat
I’d be lying if I said our experience getting out to the Nā Pali Coast was anything but miserable. For me, at least. Think water so choppy it would nauseate a seasoned sailor. Rain so torrential that you’re soaked through to the bone. And fog so thick that you can barely make out any of the famous coastline.
All that said, I’d go again in a heartbeat. Isolated beaches are scattered among verdant towering ridges. Combined with spinner dolphins gliding through the turquoise water, the whole scene is mesmerizing. We did a boat tour with Nā Pali Experience and really enjoyed it. Not only did the fog lift enough to see the coastline, we also got to swim in the clearest blue water before making our way back to the docks.
We were also lucky enough to be in Kauai during the tail end of the humpback whale migration and took a whale watching boat tour with the same company. Unfortunately, we didn’t see much more than a few tail slaps and blowhole spouts off in the distance. We didn’t leave empty handed though. Our boat captain gave us recommendations for surf lessons, scuba diving outfitters, and another reason to return to the island!
Side Note on Wildlife Viewing
This is often how it goes with wildlife viewing. Sightings are not guaranteed. Should you be in the right place at the right time, there are laws in place that govern how boats can approach the marine animals, how close you can get, and how you should behave around them (no touching/no feeding/no getting in the water with them). All of these laws are common sense and are for their protection. In an area as vast as the Pacific Ocean, any interaction you have will largely be up to the animals. Understandably, humpback whales usually choose to avoid the boats if they can. Especially when they are with their vulnerable newborn calves. That just makes it all the more magical when you do finally get to see them up close.
Hike to Hanakapi’ai Falls – One of Kauai’s Best Waterfalls
Many travel blogs describe the Kalalau Trail hike as a must-do. Given that the Hanikapi’ai Falls hike was the hardest hike I have ever done in my life, I hesitate to describe the full Kalalau Trail as something you can attempt on a whim. The Nā Pali Coast (Kalalau) trail clocks in at a staggering 22-miles (round-trip), 6000+ feet of elevation gain, and hazardous terrain conditions – on a good day. In addition, there is only one place to stop and camp, halfway through the hike at Kalalau Beach. This means you must pack all the gear and supplies you’ll need for the time you plan to spend out on the trail.
Since this isn’t any run of the mill hike, you’ll need a permit. Permits can be obtained through the park reservations portal up to 90 days in advance, even if you don’t intend to camp at Kalalau Beach. There is a reason this hike is described as one of the most treacherous in the world. But with proper preparation it is reportedly one of the most stunning.
All that being said, a less strenuous (but still strenuous) way to experience the wild beauty of the Nā Pali coast is to hike the Hanakapi’ai Falls Trail. You can hike the first two miles of the Kalalau Trail (no permit required) to Hanakapi’ai Beach, then an additional two miles upstream to the waterfall. At the end of the day, we hiked a total of 8 miles roundtrip with ~1900 feet of elevation gain. We braved water crossings and slick mud, scrambled over rock faces, and pushed ourselves to the absolute limit. Despite it all, I’d do it again.
Tips for Entering Hāʻena State Park & Hiking the Kalalau Trail
Before you start your hike to Hanakapi’ai Falls, you’ll need to obtain a parking permit for Hāʻena State Park in advance. They can be reserved here but sell out fast. Most likely, you’ll be taking the shuttle, which you need to reserve ahead of time. The time slot you reserve is non-negotiable and the park rangers verify your reservation before you get on the shuttle. Be sure to arrange alternate transportation if you plan to finish hiking after 7 PM when the last shuttle departs from Hāʻena State Park. Otherwise, you’ll have to hoof it several miles back to where you parked your car.
I recommend that you start as early as you can because this hike might take you all day. Dan and I started at 6:30 AM and didn’t finish until 4:30 PM. Beware that the trail gets muddier as the day goes on. Starting early will also let you escape the hottest hours of the day, which can be oppressive, especially if you don’t bring enough water. Remember to pack food and water. You’ll want to refuel at some point or you’ll be struggling once your energy reserves start to wane.
Explore Kauai’s Waimea Canyon
Known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, Waimea Canyon spans an impressive 10 miles and reaches a depth of 3,600 feet. Located on the northwestern side of the island, you’ll have to traverse the entire island to reach it. There are no roads along or through the Nā Pali Coast. Aside from flying through Waimea Canyon on a helicopter tour, how much you see is dependent on how far you’re willing to hike. You can hike the Nu’alolo Trail, winding your way through dense forest for 7.5 miles to a narrow ridge lookout point with views down into the canyon and out to the Pacific Ocean. Or you can snap photos from any number of viewpoints leading up to Koke’e State Park and save your energy for other activities.
Check out the roadside (and aptly named) Red Dirt Waterfall as you approach the Waimea Canyon Lookout at mile marker 10. Then grab a bite to eat in Waimea or Hanapepe. We stopped at the Coconut Corner in Waimea and devoured fried apple banana lumpia (straight from heaven), house fried chicken, and fresh fruit from the farm stand.
Dan’s pro-tip for picking pineapples: Use your nose. If it smells sweet, it’s good to eat.
Catch A Wave (or Two) in Kauai’s Hanalei Bay
People travel from all over the world to surf Oahu’s legendary swells. Unfortunately, because of the unpredictable conditions, swift currents, and coral reefs peppering the ocean floor, these waves are mostly recommended for seasoned surfers. In Hanalei Bay though, calm waters cover a sandy ocean floor, perfect conditions for inexperienced surfers (like me!). If you’re confident enough to venture out on your own, plenty of surf shops rent out boards for the day. But if you’re looking to learn the basics from a professional, take a lesson!
Dan and I booked a morning lesson through Hawaiian Surfing Adventures, a surf shop recommended to us on our Nā Pali boat trip. We could not have had a better experience. Our instructor, Miguel, catered to both of our experience levels. Dan (who has surfed) got more advanced instruction while I (who has never surfed) took time to learn the basics. Falls were plentiful but before the end of the lesson, we both caught a few waves!
Go Ziplining on Kauai
If you love soaring through the air but are looking for a different (and more budget friendly) way to experience the beauty Kauai has to offer, consider ziplining! Koloa Zipline is Kauai’s longest zipline course with 8 ziplines and the famous Fly’in Kaua’ian harness. Whether you’re zipping upside down or keeping it old school with the traditional, this is a fun three-and-a-half-hour break from the more strenuous (or expensive) activities on the island.
Trek Down to Queen’s Bath for Sunset
There is no such thing as a bad place to watch the sunset in Kauai, but Queen’s Bath might be my favorite. To reach it, you’ll need to complete a steep trek (~25 minutes) through muddy ruts and slippery stones. As you emerge from the forest, you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of azure water churning against black volcanic rock and tropical palm trees swaying in the evening breeze as the sun descends below the horizon. Take in the show a safe distance from the water and be sure to bring a flashlight if you plan to hike back in the dark.
This hike and location do come with risks. There are no lifeguards at Queen’s Bath and waves can arrive at any time with no warning. People often get too close to the tide pools can be washed off of the rocks during a big swell. In the summer, people do swim safely but in general it is not recommended. I’d consider myself a competent swimmer and I would not get in the water here). Always check the surf conditions before making this trip. Conditions can change quickly, especially in the winter when the water is more turbulent. Check out these resources for more information about how to safely make the journey to Queen’s Bath. All risks considered, this was a great sunset hike, even if we had to hike back in the dark. Without a flashlight. *sigh*
Where to Eat on Kauai
Java Kai (Kapa’a)
Kickstart your day at Java Kai. Grab an iced macadamia nut latte (& an acai berry bowl) then hit the road. Centrally located in Kapa’a, this is a great place to refuel before your adventures anywhere on the island.
Bobbie’s Restaurant (Hanapepe)
To get the full Hawaiian plate lunch experience, head to Bobbie’s Restaurant on the South Shore. Bring your appetite because the huge portions of mouth-watering food are sure to fill your belly. Dan and I shared one plate and were filled to bursting by the time we finished it. If you want to try a few Hawaiian staples, order the Da Pakala Surf Pack, which includes chicken katsu, huli huli chicken, fried saimin, and roast pork. Get there early to avoid the lunch rush and remember that they only accept cash payments.
Konohiki Seafood (Lihue)
If you can only get one poke bowl on Kauai, get it here. Konohiki Seafoods is a takeout market and sushi joint popular with the locals. The fish is so fresh and bursting with flavor, it just melts in your mouth. I still dream about the spicy ahi tuna poke bowl. While you’re at it, grab some inari sushi for the road. The spicy ahi tuna amaze-ball and the salmon ball are must-tries! Go early as popular items sell out fast.
Sushi Girl (Kilauea)
Do not miss this tiny, hole in the wall eatery on the North Shore! Our favorites included the O.G. Sushi Burrito with local ahi tuna, avocado, black beans, corn, salad greens, and yum yum sauce and the vegan miso soup. Yum yum, indeed. We washed it all down with their “Surfer Rosa” homemade tea brewed with rosebuds, lemongrass, red raspberry leaves, hibiscus, lemon balm, nettles, mixed with local honey, and served ice cold. It’s sure to hit the spot after a long day of hiking.
Jojo’s Shave Ice (Waimea & Hanalei)
Our first introduction to shave ice was at Jojo’s Shave Ice. We tried the Locals North Shore and both agreed that shave ice lives up to its must-try reputation. All of their syrups are homemade using only water, cane sugar, and Hawaiian flavorings. How can you resist fluffy melon, pineapple, and lychee shave ice on a bed of creamy macadamia nut ice cream topped with dry plum topping? You can’t.
Other restaurants/ cafes that we enjoyed on Kauai – (Hanalei) Holey Grail Donuts, Hanalei Bread Company, Wishing Well Shave Ice; (Kapa’a) Pono Market; (Lihue) Hā Coffee; (Koloa) Da Crack Mexican Grinds; (Hanapepe) Midnight Bear Breads, Paco’s Tacos Authentic Mexican Food Inc.; (Waimea) Coconut Corner
Things to Know Before You Go to Kauai
Embrace Kauai’s Aloha Spirit
When you go to Kauai (or anywhere in Hawaii), embracing the Aloha Spirit doesn’t just mean being a recipient of it. We should embody it as well. Simple things like leaving no trace while on a hike, not trespassing on sacred lands, and respecting the local people, land, and culture are part and parcel of caring for the community in this special place.
Pay Attention to the Speed Limits
Kauai is home to many spectacular drives, and it’s also home to some spectacularly confusing speed limits. Given that the road around the island is only one lane in each direction, I expected there to be traffic at certain times of day. What I did not expect were all of the (seemingly random) speed limit changes. To be completely transparent, we didn’t notice most of them and we had the speed ticket to show for it. Save yourself the money you’ll definitely want to spend on something else, mind the speed limits!
Swim at Your Own Risk on Kauai – Or Not at All
Kauai has some beautiful beaches but think twice before you take a dip in the dazzling blue water. At times, these beaches are prone to strong waves and rip currents (check out Kauai beach safety tips here). Learn how to identify a rip current and what to do if you get caught in one. Above all else, don’t ignore any signage indicating that it is not safe to swim. Find information from Kauai lifeguards on rip currents here. These signs are everywhere. If you’re in doubt or on the rare occasion there isn’t a sign, ask a lifeguard. And as the lifeguards say, when in doubt, don’t go out. This is doubly true if there’s no lifeguard around to ask.
Screen Your Sunscreen
Hawaii was the first state to ban the sale of sunscreen containing oxybenzone and octinoxate. Both chemicals that are harmful to coral reefs and marine wildlife. Look for the mineral based (known as reef safe) sunscreens with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Pick it up before you leave or you’ll pay a premium purchasing it when you arrive.
Pack Your Dramamine for Excursions Around Kauai
Experiencing the beauty of Kauai happens on boats, winding roads, and soaring helicopters. There’s no quicker way to kill your vibe than motion sickness. I learned this the hard way on a stormy boat ride out to the Nā Pali Coast, where I turned as green as the verdant forest and tried not to lose my lunch in/around the boat as Bohemian Rhapsody blared in the background. Charming scene aside, don’t be like me, pack the Dramamine.
If You Have a Drone – Don’t Launch/Land on State Park Land in Kauai
If you know your way around a drone, the laws are pretty clear about where you can launch and land – most of the time. Your drone app will let you take off almost anywhere that isn’t geofenced, but that doesn’t mean you are legally allowed to do so. In Hawaii (and therefore Kauai), launching or landing in state parks is not allowed. This is a common rule in many states. The natural areas and wildlife refuges (Kīlauea Point National Wildife Refuge and Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge) are no-go zones as well.
Since the FAA controls the airspace, you aren’t prohibited from flying through these areas, but you can’t launch or land. Moreover, in many of these areas there are signs clearly indicating where drone activity is prohibited. This means popular locations like Waimea Canyon, the Kalalau Trail, Hanakapi’ai Falls, Kalalau Beach, Ke’e Beach, Polihale Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, and the entirety of the Na Pali Coast (among others) are off-limits. To get those stunning aerial views you see all over Instagram, take a helicopter ride instead.
