Portugal is having a moment. With historic cities, a thriving wine region, and world famous coastlines, it is easy to see why this pocket-sized nation is making its way onto everyone’s bucket list. With so much to offer, Portugal was at the top of my list when planning a fall family trip. We touched down in Lisbon in late September, ready for some wine tasting and sightseeing. We had a total of seven days in Portugal (split between Porto and Lisbon). Though we covered a fair bit of ground, I feel like we barely scratched the surface of all there is to do. Just one of many reasons to return! Check out my itinerary below to see the best of Porto and Lisbon during your week in Portugal.
Portugal Day 1: Arrive in Lisbon & travel to Porto
Arrive at Humberto Delgado International Airport in Lisbon and pick up your luggage, you’ve got a train to catch! Hop on the Red Line Metro – located at the airport just outside the international terminal – and disembark at Oriente, directly inside the Oriente Train Station at the lowest level. Head up to the top floor to board your train. You’ll want to buy your tickets in advance. Trains between cities only run a few times per day and seats are limited. Once you’ve boarded, sit back and enjoy one of the most picturesque train rides in all of Europe as you make your way to Porto!
Grab your first glimpse of Porto and the Dom Luís I Bridge as you cross the Douro River into Campanhã train station. You’ll need to take the Line 852 train from Campanhã to São Bento in the heart of the city. It’s a quick trip. Take as much time as you can to appreciate the beautifully decorated walls at São Bento Station before making your way to your Airbnb. We stayed in the heart of the Sé district on Rua das Flores, a stone’s throw from São Bento Station. Once you’ve checked in, head out to locate dinner!
Note: you’ll need a reservation (or plan to wait) to dine at most restaurants any night of the week in most of Portugal’s cities. For very popular restaurants, I advise booking a week or more in advance.
Portugal Day 2: Tour the Douro Valley
It’s time to venture out of the city and sample some of Portugal’s famous wine! If you’ve done any research prior to your Portugal vacation then you’ve probably heard of the Douro Valley. One of the world’s oldest wine regions (and a UNESCO World Heritage Site), it is internationally renowned for the port wine it produces. Aside from the fortified wine, what qualifies this area for such esteemed status is the method of landscape management. Through the centuries, rows of terraces have been carved into the steep valley hills and evolved to better expose the vines to the sun as well as prevent soil erosion that occurs when farming at such sheer angles.
Rather than rent a car, we decided to book a tour through Airbnb Experiences. I linked the one we chose here but there are plenty of others available. I’ll spoil it for you now, it was spectacular!
We met our host, Daniel, in Porto before being ferried out to the Douro Valley. As we rounded the sinuous roads and left the city behind, Daniel educated us about port wine and its production. He described the essential grape varietals, how to select an authentic bottle of port once we landed stateside (it’s not port wine without Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, or Tinta Roriz!), and the near extinction of Portuguese vines wrought by an introduced parasite, phylloxera. Before we knew it, we arrived for our first activity, a private boat cruise on the Douro River.
Cruise down Portugal’s famed Douro River
After a quick espresso and bathroom break, we set off. As we cruised lazily down the river, our captain narrated the history of port wine, pointing out landmarks as we passed. As we reversed course and traveled back up the Douro, he prepared a refreshing Portuguese cocktail called port and tonic. The muddled mint, white port wine, tonic water, and sliced citrus fruit paired with the array of bite-sized, local delicacies was just what we needed to hold us over until lunch. We thanked our captain and hopped off the boat, reenergized and looking forward to our next stop.
Taste Portugal’s wine in the Duoro Valley
Winding up the sharp incline out of the valley, we forged on to our next destination, a small family owned vineyard called Quinta do Beijo. We were met by João, who walked us through a tasting of several table wines. He explained that their wines (and other wines produced in the Douro region) are subject to a rigorous set of standards pertaining to geographical area, permitted varietals, and maximum grape yields in order to be certified as DOC (or denominação de origem controlada, similar to standards that France and Italy have for their wines). We followed him into the barrel room where their crowned jewel aged in an oak wood cask. Sheltered from the stifling heat, João poured our final libation, the Quinta do Beijo Port Tawny 10 Years, which we sipped and savored before heading off to our final stop.
Indulge in a delectable farm-to-table lunch
Now for the grand finale, lunch! Not just any lunch, a chef prepared, farm-to-table lunch with wines produced by the majestic winery hosting us. It was unreal. We feasted on meats roasted on an open fire. Piled our plates high with fresh mozzarella, ripe tomatoes still warm from the sun, drizzled with olive oil from the Douro Valley and tart balsamic vinegar. Sopped up the sauces and drippings with freshly baked bread. We ate until we could eat no more, our wine glasses never empty. Manuel, Daniel, and their vineyard-owning relatives welcomed us into their family, making us wish we could stay just a bit longer. We parted ways in the glow of the late afternoon, relishing the gauzy memories of the day as if we’d dreamt them.
Our bellies full, our hearts light, and a smidge smarter about port wine, we were shuttled back to Porto. Still stuffed from lunch, we passed on dinner, deciding instead to share a final glass of wine at our Airbnb. It was a magical day, better than we could have imagined.
Portugal Day 3: Wander Around Porto
After an exciting day touring the Douro Valley, what better way to recharge and soak up the magic of Portugal’s second largest city than by lazily wandering the streets. Pocket-sized compared to Lisbon, it is possible to hit many of Porto’s highlights in one day. But I don’t recommend it. Porto is meant to be savored, like a glass of port wine at the end of a delicious meal. Take the time to marvel at the 20,000 azulejos that adorn the walls of São Bento Station. Climb the steps of Clérigos Tower and enjoy a bird’s eye view of the city. Follow in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdain and sample the sandes de pernil at Casa Guedes, then treat yourself to gelato at Gelateria Sincelo. Sip an espresso by the Douro River in Praça da Ribeira. Savor this amazing port city.
We spent three glorious days exploring and letting ourselves be captivated by Porto. Keep reading for a list of my favorite activities.
My Favorite Activities in Porto, Portugal
Harry Potter and the City of Porto Tour
This was my favorite tour of our entire trip, bar none. If I had to recommend one tour in all of Portugal, it would be this one (linked here)! I don’t want to ruin the magic by revealing the content of the tour but our guide Vinny created a truly world class experience. He weaves together scenes from the Harry Potter universe and the life of author JK Rowling with Portuguese history while guiding you through the city of Porto, bringing the sites to life in such a unique way. After the tour, he even provides recommendations for other things to see and do in Porto (he pointed us to an awesome wool shop). Read the reviews for yourself, even if you’re not a Potterhead, the tour is magical for everyone.
Surfing at Matosinhos Beach
Portugal may not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of surfing but it is actually one of the best places in the world to surf. We decided to take a surf lesson in Porto with Fish Surf School, which we booked through Airbnb Experiences. It was a fun way to spend an hour and connect with the sea that is so vital to the Portuguese people.
Sunset at Ponte de Dom Luís I
The iconic bridge that connects Porto and Gaia is one of the most popular spots to watch the sunset. Although it gets crowded, it’s still worth the visit. The views are particularly stunning at this time of day as golden light softly illuminates the buildings along the river.
Shopping for Handmade Gifts in Portugal
Fancy taking a piece of Porto home with you or finding a little something to share with your family and friends? Of course, port wine comes to mind; widely available, easy to find and best of all, will not clutter your home once consumed. When I shop for souvenirs I look for items specifically made in that region, preferably designed and manufactured nearby to support local artisans and businesses. But where, oh where, to find such wares? I decided to ask the locals. In this case, the tour guides from the excursions mentioned above, Daniel and Vinny. Here is where they sent us:
Toranja
For those looking to take home a t-shirt, magnet, or the like, check out Toranja. All products are 100% designed, created, and manufactured in Portugal, with the aim of promoting national art. Not only do they put a really cool spin on a traditional souvenir (hello, “cat driving a tram” t-shirt), they support Portuguese artists and businesses. How cool is that?
Prometeu Artesanato
If you looked at the stunning glazed tiles all over Porto and thought “I’d love to take one home”, visit Prometeu Artesanato. Here, you can purchase azulejos created by local artists. From individual tiles decorated in the signature blue and white style to larger panels depicting scenes of Porto, the creations here are undeniably unique.
Lopo Xavier & C Lda
This store was my favorite find in Porto. I had no idea that sheep’s wool is such a huge part of Portuguese history and heritage. Not only does Lopo Xavier sell thread and yarn for your own crafting, they make custom clothing, too! Just select the yarn, browse the provided catalogues for a style you like, and have it shipped to you. They also have a website where you can order their products and place custom orders. Now you have somewhere to refer all your friends who want a custom sweater just like yours!
Portugal Day 4: Return to Lisbon
Today the first half of your Portugal vacation comes to an end. Use the last few hours you have in Porto to check out any sites you might have missed in the Sé or Vitória districts (since they are right near the train station). For us, that included visiting Igreja do Carmo and Livraria Lello. Head back to São Bento Train Station, admire the azulejos one last time, and board your train to Portugal’s capitol. Don’t despair leaving this charming port city, marvelous things await you in Lisbon!
A Note on Livraria Lello
Without a doubt, Livraria Lello is one of the most beautiful and recognizable bookstores in the world. While I am glad I got to visit during my time in Porto, I’m not sure I would visit again. I did all of the things I read I should do. I booked the priority ticket voucher in advance for the earliest time slot on a weekday. Don’t get me wrong, this worked! We were at the very front of the line (which was already winding around the block by the time we arrived) and one of the first people to enter, but less than 15 minutes after opening it was absolute chaos. People were packed like sardines inside this tiny bookshop and bottlenecked on the staircase.
Forget perusing the shelves for your next read or wandering around the store to marvel at the architecture. Just get your photo, buy a book if you’re willing to wait in line, and move along to the next item on your itinerary. They did have several special editions of the Harry Potter books that were worth the long wait. Ultimately this location is not made to handle all of the people who want to visit, an unfortunate victim of overtourism.
Portugal Day 5: Get Lost in Lisbon
Are you ready to explore Portugal’s capitol city? Nestled along the bank of the Taugus River, Lisbon is bigger, busier, and more cosmopolitan than Porto. Whether it’s sampling world class cuisine at one of several Michelin starred restaurants, exploring UNESCO World Heritage Sites, or experiencing the local nightlight, Lisbon has something for everyone. So much so that it would be impossible to see it all in a single day. We spent three days exploring and eating until we were fit to burst. I found that three days was not nearly enough to see and do everything I had in mind, but I listed some of my favorites below.
My Favorite Activities in Lisbon
Eat Your Fill at Time Out Market
After a long day of travel or exploring, there is nothing better than sitting down for a good meal. We walked to Time Out Market from our Airbnb after traveling from Porto. It was an oasis – if a crowded one. With so many delicious options, you can’t possibly (and shouldn’t) stick to ordering from just one stall. Sample a francesinha, a signature Portuguese sandwich, from Miguel Castro e Silva. Eat a Salada de Abacate e Camarão from Tartine, and wash it all down with a SuperBock from the bar.
To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a delicious (and beautiful) éclair from L’Éclair. Or a cup of decadent gelato from Davvero. And don’t forget to snag a few pastéis de nata for the road from Manteigaria. My favorite find was Garrafeira Nacional, a historic wine shop with a vast collection of Portuguese wines. With an incredible selection of rare wines, you will undoubtedly be able to find a bottle of something special. So take a seat, rest your aching feet, and eat your fill at Time Out Market. It is truly unmissable!
Explore Castelo de São Jorge
Perched atop Lisbon’s highest hill is Castelo de São Jorge. Exploring one of the city’s most distinctive monuments is an ideal way to spend a morning in Portugal’s capitol city. Take in the history of the site, stroll along the battlements, and watch for the many peacocks that call this area home. The strategic placement also allows for a fantastic panoramic view of the city. Make sure to wander the technicolor streets of the Alfama district on your way back down to the city center. If you’re looking for a watercolor painting to take home, visit Stepan Zaporozhan’s art atelier. Located at Rua Chao da Feira, 31 Lisboa, it is just outside the castle walls.
Find Your Favorite Miradouro
Miradouro means viewpoint in Portuguese. Constructed on seven hills, there is a beautiful view around every corner. With over 30 miradouros peppered throughout Lisbon, hopping between them could be one of the best ways to see the city. I took some of my favorite photos of the trip from these miradouros! Beat the crowds at the Miradouro das Portas do Sol and the Miradouro de Santa Luzia (right next door to each other) by going at sunrise. This time of day makes for stunning photos too, when pinks and oranges paint the horizon. Our Airbnb was located right around the corner from the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, a bustling area with food stands and music. These three miradouros are arguably the most well-known. But with so many others to choose from, you really can’t go wrong.
Skip Tram 28
Ever seen those breathtaking photos of a yellow tram winding through the narrow streets of Portugal? It is probably Lisbon’s Tram 28. Because it’s so famous, it is easy to think this is the best way to see the historic sites along the route, like Sé Cathedral and Portas do Sol. I’ll start by saying that using the tram system to get around Lisbon is an exciting and worthwhile experience by itself, one you can have without boarding Tram 28. Not only are locals and tourists using this line to travel around the city, there are not many seats to begin with. With many people riding it just for fun, these cars get crowded.
Alas, like so many others visiting Portugal, we were determined to have the Tram 28 experience (Yelp reviews, be damned!). So we woke up before sunrise to beat the line and snag a seat. Even at that early hour, the tram was full after 2 stops. We could not turn around let alone see anything out the window. Sensing that I was about to claw my way to the rear of tram and launch myself out, Dan suggested we hop off and stroll along the route instead. We meandered past Sé Cathedral, ending up at Miradouro das Portas do Sol just as the sun emerged from the horizon, which we would have missed if we stayed on the tram.
Take the sightseeing tram instead!
There is a sightseeing tram that traverses the same route as Tram 28, without the long lines and cramped quarters. You can book tickets in advance and the ticket is valid for 24 hours. You can hop on and off as much as you want, taking in the city at your own pace. Something to look forward to next time we’re in Lisbon!
Portugal Day 6: Day Trip to Sintra
Ready to check another one of Portugal’s UNESCO World Heritage site off your bucket list? Just a short train ride from Lisbon lies the hilly town of Sintra, famous for its colorful castles. Only guided tour operators and the tourist bus are permitted to drive in this area, so we decided on an Airbnb Experiences tour that visited both Sintra and the coast. I linked it here, note that this tour does not include Pena Palace. We met our guide outside the Portela de Sintra train station, climbed into a vintage jeep and set off towards Sintra.
Stop #1 – Quinta de Regaleira
Our first stop was Quinta da Regaleira, a stunning palace with lush, wild gardens and an even wilder backstory. The owner, Carvalho Monteiro, is said to have created this space to surround himself with symbols that reflected his ideologies and interests. The woods are purposefully arranged so that as you ascend to the top of the property, the foliage becomes progressively wilder, a reflection of Monteiro’s belief in primitivism. The initiatory well and the Chapel of the Holy Trinity are also rife with symbology. The former invoking references to Dante’s Divine Comedy and Freemasonry – an order to which Monteiro allegedly belonged. You could spend hours wandering the grounds trying to decode all of the symbols. The thought that went into designing and constructing this man’s masterpiece is incredible!
Stop #2 – Lunch!
After walking around in the sun at Quinta da Regaleira palace, a meal was in order. I appreciate when guides take the time to introduce us to local restaurants that are easily overlooked. Pensão Sisudo was a hidden gem, the perfect place to refuel before our last adventure of the day. This quaint hotel and restaurant in Colares provided generous portions of hearty vegetable soup and smoky oven roasted chicken followed by airy chocolate mousse, espresso, and a shot of ginja. A friendly street cat named Tobias was the cherry on top. He roamed the restaurant letting guests pet him in exchange for morsels of chicken (a fair trade). It was a memorable break in our fast-paced itinerary.
Stop #3 – Cascais & the Coast
Refreshed and ready for our third and final stop of the day, Bruno drove us out to the coast. We made a short stop at Praia da Adraga before heading up to a secret overlook, which left us speechless. To your left and right, sandy beaches tucked among the sheer cliffs rising out of the roiling ocean. Straight ahead, blue water as far as the eye can see. This is the westernmost point of continental Europe, after all! Cabo da Roca holds the title of “true” westernmost point but I preferred the solitude of our hidden spot. Our tour ended in Cascais.
After a long day in the sun, we didn’t feel up for exploring the area and decided to Uber back to our Airbnb. We ordered takeout, opened a bottle of Portugal’s famous vinho verde, and watched the sunset from our rooftop deck.
A Note on Sintra
I really wanted to love Sintra and had high (maybe unrealistic) hopes for our visit. I ended up leaving with mixed feelings, much like my experience at Livraria Lello. While the palaces are beautiful, the area is incredibly congested and busy. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the site must be preserved in its current state leaving no way to improve the infrastructure or roadways.
Like other similarly popular sites, the government of Portugal is considering limiting the number of visitors in an attempt to solve this problem. We hoped to get there early to snap some pictures before the crowds arrived. Logistically we couldn’t make it work. With no way to drive into Sintra and buses running from 9:15 AM (and even the first buses of the day have a line), our only option would have been to arrive much earlier and walk 55 minutes up the very steep Caminho de Santa Maria footpath.
Ultimately, we would have had to structure our entire day around visiting Pena Palace, leaving no time to visit the coast, which is why we decided to forgo it entirely. There is a more comprehensive blog post by Pink Caddy Travelogue that I used while planning our Sintra day trip. It details some dos and don’ts of visiting Sintra that I found helpful. When I visit Portugal again, I’ll dedicate an entire day to Sintra. And another day or two for the exploring the beaches and offerings of Colares and Cascais.
Portugal Day 7: Depart from Lisbon
Wrap up your Portugal vacation by visiting anything you missed in Lisbon before heading to the airport. For me, that included souvenir shopping and eating one last pastel de nata. Head to the airport, check your bags, and try not to get too depressed that your Portuguese vacation is coming to an end. Você estará de volta em breve!
My Favorite Places for Sweets in Lisbon
Manteigaria
It would be a crime to leave Portugal without trying the signature egg custard tart or pastel de nata. Truly ubiquitous, you can’t walk down the street in Lisbon without seeing them in a store window. For me, Manteigaria takes the cake. The heavenly combination of sweet custard suspended in crispy, flaky crust and dusted with cinnamon is divine. There are several locations in Lisbon. Visit the one in TimeOut Market for a sweet finish to your culinary adventure.
Bettina & Niccolò Corallo
A Lisbon gem, this chocolate and coffee shop in the Príncipe Real district is inviting and restorative. Sip delicious espresso brewed from São Toméan coffee beans roasted in-house while you nibble on a piece of artisan chocolate. An assortment of decadent flavors like orange, hazelnut, and raspberry are available for purchase. They make the perfect gift for the chocolate lover in your life (even if it that’s you).
Gelato Davvero
Translation: Real Ice Cream! It doesn’t get any more real than this. With over 20 flavors made fresh daily using only locally sourced ingredients from Portugal – except the pistachios and hazelnuts, which come from Italy – and served Roman style with a spatula, you cannot pass up this sweet treat. Even when in Portugal, do as the Romans do, and eat all the gelato!
Ginjinha Sem Rival
If there is anything as distinctive in Portugal as pastéis de nata, it is ginjinha. There is nowhere as iconic to sample it as Ginjinha Sem Rival in Lisbon’s downtown district, Baixa. Ginjinha is a sweet liqueur made from sour cherries soaked in aguardente (a distilled spirit) then flavored with cinnamon and sugar. Most ginja bars serve it in a small glass (like a shot). Or if you’re lucky, in a tiny chocolate cup, which we could not try due to the high temperatures. Since these bars tend to be on the small side and generally lack seating, grab your ginja and have it alfresco before moving on to your next destination.
